One of the fixtures in Singaporean society is hawker culture. Officially added to UNESCO’s ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity’ list in 2020, the impact of stalls and their highly-respected hawker ‘aunties and uncles’ island-wide is hard to define but certainly priceless.
Hawker stalls - small, individual storefronts selling goods - are more often than not organized into complexes called hawker centers, of which tend to offer products that reflect the region’s environment and local diversity. Ranging from stalls serving the polarizing durian, to juices from sources like sugarcane pressed onsite, to soft roti prata, and to staple kaya toast, the options are numerous and wholly at your disposal.
Choosing a hawker center to dine in is usually based on proximity because, well, Singapore has upwards 120 of them. There are larger versions in popular neighborhoods frequented by both locals and tourists, whether that be as a consequence of being near a sightseeing spot, next to the office, or close to one’s home. There are also smaller iterations island-wide in residential areas, where community members can gather, chat, and share their meals. Regardless of the version you choose, always guaranteed is a communal experience replete with good food and even better company.
Here are some of my tips and recommendations for visitors to Singapore interested in the hawker scene:
- Learn how to “chope.” A term used to describe claiming one’s spot at a hawker table, the respect of “chope culture” is almost universal in Singapore. It allows you to set one of your belongings at a seat as an act of reservation whilst waiting in the queue to order your meal. This may seem risky coming from somewhere abroad that runs a bit more abound with thievery, but in low-crime Singapore, the chope is practically law. See an umbrella, water bottle, pack of tissues, or miscellaneous small item? Find another seat at that table or elsewhere to place your own.
- Have cash! Most hawker centers only take cash and/or digital pay apps linked to Singaporean bank accounts. Standard portion prices tend to range S$3-10 per dish.
- Observe the queues and follow in local footsteps. Odds are, the longer the order queue at a stall (especially one that’s not internationally renowned), the better the food. Take the lunch hour, for example: what office worker wants to spend more than half their break waiting unless the food is sublime?
- “[Dining] here or takeaway? [With] chili?” Two questions frequently asked at the fateful moment of your order. Could be ahead of the game and specify both preferences before the auntie or uncle inquires - latter question depending on the dish - but not necessary.
- Be mindful of your tray. Once finished eating, it’s your responsibility to place your tray at one of several tray return stations scattered throughout the dining area. However, make note of whether your tray should be returned to the Halal or Non-Halal section, either by checking the color of the utensils (typically green for halal) or asking another patron to confirm.
- Place and dish suggestions
- Chinatown Food Center: A personal favorite and my introduction to hawker culture when I first arrived. Have returned several times since then for char kway teow (stir-fried noodles).
- Maxwell: Another of Chinatown’s hawker centers situated beside an MRT station and across from the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. This is where the well-known Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice is served, so you can’t go wrong with that (be forewarned, the queue can be extensive). Also enjoyed their hor fun (flat rice noodles) topped with a runny egg yolk.
- Golden Mile: Substantial multi-level center a bit more tucked away, but ultimately not far from the center of trendy Kampong Glam. I was incredibly indecisive and unable to read the all-Chinese menu (usually there is English as well); this caught the attention of the hawker auntie, who ordered for me and chose a chili pork bee hoon dish with wonton soup.
- Lau Pa Sat: Probably in the top 3 famous hawker centers of Singapore, with Victorian architecture and countless cuisines. Went here recently and tried rather flavorful Ipoh chicken curry noodles.
Ava Hadland
Spring 2024
GW Exchange - National University of Singapore
Elliott School of International Affairs
International Affairs Major